First we had to cut the old floors out making sure that the car is jigged so that we don't loose the shape

The we had to fit the doors back to the car. The gaps had suffered over the years from fatigue in the chassis.

Once the car is jigged back up and all the panels are back on we can begin to do the metal repair.

Darrin and Rod begin by marking all the areas that need to be addressed. this is a set of holes from the mirror screws that need to be welded up and re drilled.

The bucket is in poor shape and needs to be replaced.

Once removed we start repairing the body around the bucket. then it will be ready for a new bucket.

Same on the Drivers side

The tail had issues. We will fill the old license plate holes.

There was lots of surface rust under all the paint that had to be addressed.

The bumper bracket and over rider holes all needed to be redone.

This bracket hole was patched years ago with rivets and a strap. This will get removed and metal finished.

The piece was fixed and now we need to finish it up

While Darrin works on the exterior, Rick has been fixing underneath and preparing for the chassis stiffening and floors.

We found some ugly damage under one of the tail lights that needs to be addressed.

Much better!!

In order to repair the door jam rust the lead had to be melted out.

Things are taking shape.

We can't forget to remove the antennae hole. Speedsters don't need stinking antennas

We are remaking annular brakes for the car. they will be fit to 901 rear trailing arm suspension.

The trans will be a 901 close ratio 5 speed.

In order to fit a 901 box in a 356 and to do it so that it is no intrusive, you must modify the bell housing so that you can hang the engine and trans the way a 356 is hung.

Since the gearbox is longer it is necessary to c notch the nose cone. You loose the speedo drive in the trans but that is OK because a 356 reads speed from the front wheel.

We will either run a VDM or a Nardi. the other will go on the Coupe.

When we decided to go to a steering wheel without a ring. I immediately sent a set of switches to Joris for restoration and conversion to double switches to retain the ability to flash the lights.

Many of the suspension parts are ready to go. The steering box has been rebuilt and converted to grease.

Some of the chrome is back from the palter and looks great. Some of the pieces in the picture are for Richards coupe so no I am not going to put quarter window latches on a Speedster.

The gauges were done by North Hollywood Speedo. The Combo gauge is a 904 gauge it will allow us to watch pressure as well as fuel and temp.

H4's will give us great lighting and the right look.

The original seats are in great shape.

They are getting stripped and prepped for repair. We will paint to protect them and then send them out to Tony at Autobahn  get upholstered.

After the floors were removed, we prepped the floor flanges and then removed the center section of the torsion tube.

After the longitudinals were removed, we reinforce the area on the inner longitudinal by adding another layer of 18 gauge sheet metal.

This will stiffen the core of the chassis.

The next step is to remove all the surface rust then cold galvanize all inner panels before the new longitudinal is installed.

Once the longitudinals are done then it is time for the floors.

Floors are being fit and installed.

The floors are completely welded.

The next step is to mock up the seats and install the seat brackets.

Now on to the battery box. Some of the box perimeter needed to be replaced.

Headlight bucket installation is next on the exterior.

The headlight area was badly rusted.

After the bucket was removed we rebuilt the lip.

Next we had to continue to fit the headlight bucket. After the fender brace and headlight wiring tube is done we will weld the bucket in.

Inside of new battery area.

Bottom side of new battery area.

The floors, battery area, and front suspension adjusters are finished

Now we are on to the rear suspension. We have to replace the center section of the torsion tube to mount the 901 rear trailing arms.

We will put the car on the ground with all the suspension and engine in the car to ensure that we get the desired camber specs.

We repaired the hole that a backyard mechanic put in the car to access the starter.

The door latch post to fender joint was slightly rusted. First we had to melt the lead out.

Then we formed a new panel.

After installation it was better than new. It wont need the 1/4 inch of lead.

The engine arrived. It is a Polopolus 4 cylinder 911.

The bottom lip of the hood was rusty. so the first thing was to cut out the old

We had another hood that was damaged in the rear so we were able to use the good part to repair the original hood.